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VITAMIN C
Vitamin C
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its antioxidant properties make it a vital molecule for skin health because of its role in collagen synthesis. It is found in high levels in both the dermis and epidermis and, although the concentrations of vitamin C in both layers is almost equal to other water-soluble antioxidants (uric acid and glutathione), the vitamin C content of the epidermis is higher than the dermis.
Photo or chemical processes effect levels of vitamin C in both the dermis and epidermis. Some examples of natural processes are aging, excessive exposure to UV light, pollutants such as cigarette smoke and the ozone, car exhaust, incinerator exhaust and industrial exhaust. Vitamin C can help the body repair photo or chemically damaged skin.
Photodamage/Wrinkling
Photo damage (photo-aging) and chronologic aging result in the accumulation of oxidative damage to proteins, which can lead to changes in the structure of your skin. Not only does vitamin C have antioxidant functions, but it can also regulate the synthesis of the structural protein collagen. Vitamin C creates extracellular stability and supports the epidermis through its role in the hydroxylation of collagen.
As previously mentioned, the supplementation of vitamin C can aid in repairing photodamaged skin. It does so by stabilizing collagen mRNA, which increases collagen protein synthesis that repairs the damaged skin. At the same time, when there is photo damage, the elastin protein often becomes overproduced as a result and vitamin C supplementation will aid in decreasing the elastin production. As we age, fibroblasts reduce in capacity, but vitamin C will increase the production of them dramatically as well as encourage DNA repair within cultured fibroblasts.
Skin health studies are performed by assessing changes in depth, the amount of wrinkles or simply by the person's own perception of their skin. Higher intakes of vitamin C have been shown to improve skin appearance, including decreasing wrinkles. You can also achieve similar results by using vitamin C (3-10%) topically for at least 12 weeks. This also reduces roughness of the skin, reduces protein fiber damage and increases collagen production. Using a topical vitamin C supplementation can also reverse some age-related structural changes between the dermis and epidermis.
Dry Skin
Higher intakes of vitamin C may have an impact on TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) as evidenced by a decreased risk of dry skin and skin roughness. By vitamin C helping to produce a superficial layer of oil on your skin, it helps to reduce skin dehydration. It has also been shown that topical vitamin C application increased TEWL, so the effects on skin dryness aren't definitive.
When large amounts of vitamin C are administered intravenously, previously oxidized and dormant enzyme chelators inside unhealthy wrinkled cells can be reactivated (reduced) and a surge of effective intracellular regeneration takes place, resulting in healthier skin. An IV push of 30,000 mg 2 to 3x a week can lead to radiant, healthy skin and body detoxification.